Last Tangle in Paris

 By B. Lee Cash

This story is here to mess with your head! It's all about shaking loose that super-slick, perfectly tame hair for glamorous nights out. "People are so worried about getting every single piece of hair in the right place that it ends up looking old lady instead of young and hip," says Kristie Pellegrino, a groovy stylist and up 'do specialist at Louie Salon in San Francisco, California. "Hair is supposed to look messy and natural, not at all perfect."

All of Pellegrino's latest styles require back-combing, but what exactly is it? People refer to it in many ways:  teasing, ratting and back-combing are actually all the same thing. "To back-comb, you hold a small section of hair 90 degrees off the scalp in one-inch sections," says Pellegrino. "With a fine-tooth comb, comb down the hair shaft beginning mid-length. Do this in a repeated motion to create a little nest that looks like one of those troll dolls. Comb back the sections gently with a bristle brush to smooth over and style as desired." Now you're really ready to mess things up! Here are three of Pellegrino's favorite imperfectly glamorous up 'dos.

Pumped Up Pompadour!
The runway loves to put pompadours on models because you can pair the outrageousness of a huge, swept chunk of bangs with anything: high or low ponytail, French braids, even cornrows. "I think it's a simple but hot hairstyle," says Pellegrino. "It's flattering with the height on top because it opens up your face."

The bangs: Separate the section of hair, from your forehead to your crown, that you'll back-comb into the raised pompadour. Pull the rest of the hair back in an elastic to keep out of the way. In one-inch sections beginning at the hairline, back-comb the hair with your fine-toothed comb, putting each completed piece forward toward the face as you work your way back. Smooth back with your bristle brush creating a look of swooped-back bangs. Pin in place, angling the bobby pins first toward the scalp, then at an angle toward the hairline.

The back: Pull the rest of the hair into a mid or low ponytail. Or, part hair down the middle and French braid in two sections. Top with a medium-hold finishing spray.

Style Sessions Total Look: "I would go with Gwen Stefani pop-rock makeup, something severe, even '80s inspired," says Pellegrino. "You should wear brave makeup with this hair!"

Style Sessions Tip: "A successful up 'do needs hair to be at least one-day dirty, otherwise the hair is too slippery," says Pellegrino. "If you have hair that gets really greasy in one day, you'll need to "dirty" your hair. I like salt-based spray products, but you can also spray hairspray in your hair, or even spray a brush and brush through your hair a few times to create a less slippery texture."

Hair Bands Forever!
The bangs: First, put the headband around your neck so you don't have to pull it over the teased sections later -- no worries if it's an arch headband. Now, separate a square section of hair, from your temples to the back of your crown on top of your head. Pull the bottom section of remaining hair into an elastic to get it out of the way. Back-comb that whole top section in one-inch pieces. Push each section toward your face as you work your way back. Now, take the rest of the unteased hair out of the holding elastic and, starting at the base of the neck, twist the hair working the hair toward the crown. Secure the high, tight twist with an elastic.

"This is really high, tight pony, but you are twising it from the neckline to create the illusion of a twist for a fancy factor. The pieces of hair pulled back by the headband, and the hair from the pony-twist, should be pinned to create a studied mussy spiky affect," says Pellegrino.  Smooth back the teased hair with your bristle brush. 

The band: Put the head band on. "The headband creates a tight feeling around your face, and everything will poof out behind it," says Pellegrino. Take pins, and pin the longer pieces around the elastic to create a small fountain-like affect. Angle pins toward scalp, then turn and push in toward the elastic so they disappear -- you shouldn't see the elastic. Next, take shorter pieces sticking out around the headband and pin each piece so they all stick up in a spiky-cool border around the headband.

Style Sessions Total Look: "I'd go with classic and pretty makeup," says Pellegrino.

Crazy Buns
The bun: With a center or side part -- whatever you prefer with your face shape -- pull hair into a low ponytail on the side of the head, just behind or next to your ear is best; secure tightly in an elastic that best matches your hair color. Take sections of the ponytail and back-comb to make the whole ponytail as messy and ratty as possible. Next, take pieces of the pony and pin one at a time into the hair around the elastic so hairs don't hang long. "You can leave some pieces out hanging long, but what you're going for is a bun that's like a really beautiful messy rose," says Pellegrino. Finish with a medium-hold spray.

Style Sessions Total Look: "Think modern, Flamenco dancer," says Pellegrino. "Try false eyelashes, and bold red lips." And why not clip a silk rose directly next to the bun and just behind the bun? Saucy!